Explore the Pour is Moving - Drink Dogma Begins!

Explore the Pour is moving and will now be known as Drink Dogma (www.drinkdogma.com). Please update your RSS and bookmarks. If you have a blog, I would appreciate you kindly changing your link to my blog in order to get my new site up and running. The new site is awesome, so be sure to check it out and tell me what you think! Thanks for putting up with the move.

Tales of the Cocktail Deadlines

I know; I know. I hate deadlines just as much as the next guy, but every once in a while, meeting a deadline can be an intoxifying experience. So there; don't be scared about the approaching deadlines; drink them in. Tales of the Cocktail's Official Cocktail Competition is currently underway, and recipes are due by March 17th! This leaves you just under three weeks to develop a magical libation that could be a centerpiece of the annual event. This year's topic is punch, and Tales is asking bartenders everywhere to reintroduce classic punch methods and recipes to remind us why this mixture of "five ingredients: liquor, sugar or sweetening agent, citrus juice, tea (or other spice) and water" once dominated social consumption. Five ingredients, endless possibilities, and only three weeks to narrow down your preference. Time to stock up on this year's required spirits, New Orleans Old Amber Rum and Martell VSOP, Jack in the Box tacos, and reserve some hangover time with my bed. Visit TalesoftheCocktail.com for more information.

Additionally, the Tales of the Cocktail's Cocktail Apprentice Program deadline is also not too far off. The deadline for submitting an application to work with the likes of Dale DeGroff, Audrey Saunders, Julie Reiner, Tony Abou-Ganim, David Wondrich and others is March 31st. This program sounds really exciting and should certainly be something that any professional bartender should consider. More information on this program is also available at TalesoftheCocktail.com.

Finally, even if you don't plan to participate in any of these programs, you should start thinking about hotel reservations and buying tickets. Tickets go on sale April 1st, but special hotel rates are already available via the Tales website and won't last long. Ok, there, I'm done stressing you out about how having fun with cocktails can occasionally require some degree of responsibility and planning. Now go relax and have yourself a punch.

Campari, Carmine, and Corporate Conquests

The eGullet Spirits and Cocktails forum has a very interesting discussion about Campari and possible recipe changes that the spirit has undergone over the last few years. Campari has traditionally used carmine, a product from cochineal beetles, to help give the aperitif its striking red color, but around 2005, Campari labels stopped printing "contains carmine" on the back of the label in exchange for "artificially colored". While different theories exist in regards to whether or not the use of carmine was reduced or stopped at this time, a cloud of uncertainty appears to have set over the brand.

As many eGulleters did this week after reading about this on the forum, I tracked down two differently labeled bottles of Campari and did a blind tasting of each. My findings are very similar to those described on the forum in that the newer "artificially colored" bottle was a tad sweeter and more vibrant than the older bottle, which seemed to have a more rounded, consistent flavor throughout. I'm not a tasting expert by any means, but I found the newer bottle to be more aggressive than the older, which might seem attractive (it is Campari after all). However, in this case, the newer Campari was less balanced than the older. Some have pointed out that this may be the result of changes in the spirit over time, which makes sense, but I think a greater concern exists here.



I love my Campari just as much as the next bitter-loving cocktail enthusiast, so, sure, the possibility that aging is the perceivable difference in the two bottles is a definite relief to some degree. But, the ongoing uncertainty about the stability of one of the most treasured and historical Italian aperitifs is far more unsettling. The persistent purchasing of distilleries and brands of spirits by alcohol conglomerates creates a situation in which many of our favorite spirits are caught in a world of economic flux in which the integrity of spirits must compete with market pressures and trends.

Many spirits, especially tequila, have seen surges in demand after being bought by large corporations who launch aggressive advertising campaigns. Frequently, the popularity of these spirits forces the newly acquired distilleries to make adjustments to original techniques and use inferior ingredients. Occasionally, these shifts are obvious and easily noted by dedicated consumers, bartenders, and others. But, as with Campari, two words on the back of a reformatted label may be the only indication that something is has changed.

I think this is a major concern that is likely to become more pressing as the acquisition of spirits continues worldwide. To prevent the degradation of the quality of our favorite spirits, it is important some steps be undertook. First, sharing perceptions of changes in spirits with other enthusiasts on sites like eGullet is important because it will attract attention to possible recipe alterations that might have gone unnoticed otherwise. Not everyone is going to buy new bottles of Campari at the same time so noticeable public reaction is unlikely if people don't share thoughts with one another about their experiences.

Micro-distilleries also need to be supported as individual companies. Expressing devotion to a company because it is privately owned mitigates global corporate interest because acquisition would destroy the brand's appeal. This does mean, however, that we must support micros because of their creativity and use of quality ingredients. In short, don't buy or bolster micro-distilleries because it is trendy to do so, do it to make a statement and enjoy the difference after researching their techniques of production.

Finally, if you're a bartender, take the time to introduce people to older products, like Campari, so that any incentive for change becomes unnecessary. Yes, it's a small step, but I think everybody's first taste of Campari might have been a little different if someone didn't tell you what you were in for and show you how it can be used. The cocktail resurgence across the country has already brought ingredients like Creme de Violette back to the states (unless you're living in Texas under stupid liquor laws), so there is some indication that advocating older products is not as critical as it once was. Yet, the recent changes in Campari suggest that nothing is certain and all spirits are at risk to some degree.

I sent an e-mail to Campari tonight requesting information about the use of carmine and any recipe changes to the aperitif, and if I get a response, I will post more about it here. Campari may have not even changed, and to some degree, only time will tell if the spirit evolves on the shelf. However, this issue seems to be occurring far too frequently these days, and I think it is a concern that warrants greater attention and concern. Classic cocktails require classic ingredients. Don't mess with my Negronis.

Texas Liquor Laws and St. Germain's Tardiness

I have started to wonder if states like Washington, Pennsylvania, and Texas are competing against one another to maintain the most ridiculous collection of liquor laws. For example, while everyone else in the country was mixing it up with St. Germain a year ago, lone star state residents like myself and fellow cocktail blogger, the Tipsy Texan, were left thirsty. It wasn't until last week that St. Germain finally became available to bars and the public. So don't act like we're the special kids in gym class just because we're a year behind with our posts praising the elderflower liqueur. True, I had tried some St. Germain the week before I left Illinois last May, but I never really had a chance to work with the product. I assumed that I would find a bottle once I got to Texas. Instead, all I found was the same oversized SUV's I had left two years before, all too eager to drive into my car in an attempt to squeeze in the compact car space - twice - one month. No St. Germain; no note about the damages.

While Texas laws concerning hit and runs are very clear (assuming you can find the bastards), Texas liquor laws are among the most confusing in the nation. Here's what we're working with down here:

-Encyclopedia Britannica is banned in Texas because it has a recipe in it for making beer.
-It is illegal for someone to take more than three sips of beer at one time while standing.
-Here in Houston, it is illegal to buy beer after midnight, but it can be purchased all day on Mondays.

Those are some of the more comedic laws, but seriously, Texas issues 66 different types of liquor licenses. 66! I don't even think I could create more than 10 of I had to. As with most bureaucratic overdoses, politics and money are the root of the problem. The most aggravating part of liquor regulations for bars and restaurants in the state of Texas is that we must buy all of our spirits from retail stores (diagrammed here). Spirits cannot be bought from distributors as one would do in any other logical state. This creates a situation where bars and restaurants are forced to pay for an additional distribution step that is unnecessary, as national and local distributors across the county have demonstrated the ability and desire to directly provide products. While laws that previously required the same procedures for wine have been revoked, spirits still have to be bought from stores solely because of lobbyist efforts to maintain profits for retail stores.

While this may not seem like that big of an issue, we recently ran out of a type of wine at the bar this weekend, so I went to the local store to pick some up. At retail prices, the same bottle cost me 3 dollars more than the direct distributor price. After buying six bottles, we effectively paid 18 dollars more than we would from a distributor. Now do the math on orders of 50 bottles of liquor a week from the same store, and you can see how the retail stores are allowed to slowly leech off our establishments. Now that I thnk about it, maybe I should be trying to open a liquor store instead of a bar! Wait a second, I would still have to go through that horrible TABC certification program I did a couple of months ago; so maybe I should just move out of state first.

I might not be that frustrated with Texas laws along if I could still get great products like St. Germain, but Texas also requires label approval and chemical testing for each individual brand. Most other states accept federal approval, which undergoes stricter testing, to set standards for brands available in their states. But apparently, Texas feels that our scientists are going to find something that the feds didn't. Combine that with waiting on the lackluster Texas government to then approve individual labels and people like me are forced to buy products over the net and get reamed on shipping.

I guess when the day finally comes for new spirits, we are ready. I love St. Germain and am going to be trying out everyone's 2007 libations and developing some of my own over the next few weeks. So far, I really like using the elderflower liqueur with gins and fortified wines, especially Lillet. Additionally, I think Pisco and St. Germain are an interesting combination. Here's a couple to try:

Pisco Sour Remix

2 oz Pisco
1 oz Lemon Juice
1 Tsp St. Germain
1 Egg White
2 Dashes Fee Brother's Aromatic Bitters.

Read my treatise on egg cocktails to perfect this drink, or combine in a shaker filled with ice and shake VERY hard for an extended period of time and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with the bitters.

If you've ever sat at my bar for more than a couple of drinks, I've probably forced a pisco sour or two on you. In this case, adjusting the bitters is important because the Fee's don't overpower the St. Germain as much as the traditional Angostura would. Other than that, it's pretty much the standard 3-2-1 approach with a little less liqueur than the usual simple syrup. the St. Germain is a subtle but awesome change.

The Peruvian Elder-Sour
(Via Gary Regan - The San Francisco Chronicle)

2 oz Pisco
1 oz St. Germain
1/2 oz Lime Juice

Shake and strain into a champagne flute. Garnish with a lime wheel.

As written, I found this recipe to be a bit sweeter than I like, but using more lime juice and decreasing the St. Germain created a much more balanced drink in my opinion. Either way, I think the St. Germain-pisco combination is a winner as demonstrated by each of these concoctions. To be honest, St. Germain's unique and high-quality properties could probably be mixed with any spirit if done correctly. The possibilities are endless.

Ok, let's recap; the car is in the shop getting repaired. The St. Germain is at the bar getting used in cocktails being tweaked every night. Now, if someone would only get to work on the Texas liquor regulatory structure, all would be right in my world.

Welcome Houston Cocktail Lovers!

Just wanted to say hello to Houston Chronicle readers heading this way from Alison Cook's blog, Cook's Tour.

I hope this blog can provide a oasis to a city that has not quite caught up with the cocktail revolution happening across the nation. Maybe we just like our machine-made margaritas too much, but hey, the cocktail can be resurrected here too. It has been nice to meet local fans of the cocktail through this blog and discuss area bars that do it right and personal drink interests. If you have any questions about the Houston cocktail scene, or simply want to meet a local cocktail freak, drop me a line, or leave me a note in the comment section of this post.

If you need a good drink, I've got you covered there too. Please come by my bar at Beaver's, any evening Tuesday through Sunday, and introduce yourself to me. We make some very creative cocktails with a nod to old-school techniques and ingredients. No apple pucker or other sweet candy drinks here, just a honest, well-balanced drink. You can find information on the bar hours and location here.

Well, thanks for showing some interest in an area bartender trying to change the Houston cocktail scene. There are more cocktail fans in our city than you think, and many of them can be found serving the vital role of lab rat at Beaver's everyday. Please come join the party. Enjoy the blog; I hope it helps make your home mixing endeavors more exciting than ever.

The Last Word

It is ironic that a drink called the Last Word has resulted in endless discussions on cocktail blogs all over the net. Attempting to knock the Aviation off the internet cocktail dork throne, this drink became an even popular topic of discussion following its appearance on Robert Hess' video cocktail endeavor, the Cocktail Spirit. With such excellent coverage devoted to a singular cocktail, it might seem a bit repetitive to put together another homage to this wonderful classic, but I also think that this cocktail is a great classic to play with, making it a great option for this Mixology Monday.

To begin, let's look at the components of the Last Word. This drink is extremely similar to another classic, the Aviation. The Aviation can be a tricky drink to make, as the maraschino can easily dominate the cocktail. Understanding this relationship is important as it is a vital consideration in the Last Word as well. If you're new to the cocktail blog thing, here's how to make the Aviation:

Aviation

2 oz Gin
1 oz Lemon Juice
2 Dashes Maraschino

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a homemade maraschino cherry.

Simple drink really, but one that can change and require some practice especially when different gins are used. I love a good Aviation, but the Last Word is much better in my opinion.

The Last Word

3/4 oz Gin
3/4 oz Green Chartreuse
3/4 oz Maraschino Liqueur
3/4 oz Lime Juice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass.

Now there are some obvious changes here namely the diminished proportion of gin, the addition of green Chartreuse, and the substitution of lime juice for lemon juice. Maybe I just haven't done enough reading on other blogs or forums, but I don't personally like all these differences.

First, I prefer more gin in my Last Words. Hell, I want more gin in my cereal, but I really think it is needed here. As the drink stands, it is far too sweet because there is just too much maraschino in the drink. Sure, we could bump the maraschino down a bit, but I do like how it balances the Chartreuse. Combined however, the Chartreuse and maraschino dominate the rest of the drink in my opinion. More gin is definitely needed. I like a healthy dose of a heavy, well-balanced gin like Junipero. The green Chartreuse is a welcome addition to the standard Aviation, but it needs to know its role in the drink.

The other green companion, however, is out of place. Limes? Why does this drink use limes? I just don't think they fit at all. The drink is much better with lemons. I dare you to make two sets of Last Words side-by-side and tell me the one with lime is better. Again, maybe I've just lost sight of the drink and gone down the path of my own preferences, but I don't think so. My bar guests tend to agree, and I have stopped making Last Words with lime juice entirely.

I think the result of tinkering with the Last Word in the manners described creates a much more refined and balanced drink that utilizes the gin properties of the Aviation while capitalizing on the use of green Chartreuse. I don't up the citrus as much as a traditional Aviation would, but it is important to let the gin be the star. Here's how I make mine:

Refined Speech

1 1/2 oz Junipero
Gin 3/4 oz Green Chartreuse
3/4 oz Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur
1/2 oz Lemon Juice

Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Now, clearly we have a very different drink than the original Last Word, but I think that changing ratios of this classic and switching citrus is well worth the experimenting. I rarely follow a recipe from a book. Sure, I start there, but ultimately the unique characteristics of the world's spirits require adjustments in all cocktails. A good cocktail is the product of someone's understanding of all the spirits and how they work together. A couple of others have tinkered with the Last Word as well; I hope I didn't miss anyone:

Rick at Kaiser Penguin substituted St.Germain for Green Chartreuse and also used lemon juice. Good job Rick; this sounds interesting and will definitely be on the try this soon list...if only St. Germain were available in Texas. Rick definitely fits into the category of understanding a drinks' individual components and their union, so I think you might want to test this one as well. C'mon, you didn't have anything important to do tomorrow anyway.

Then there's Jamie Bourdeau, who burns up rosemary and turning the Chartreuse into a torch. Don't get this guy on your bad side; make sure you always tell him you like his drinks, or man, who knows what will happen to you. Not that there would be a situation when you wouldn't like the drinks, as this one too looks awesome. If I ever make it to Seattle and can visit Vessel, this is the one drink I want to try more than any other. He calls it the Rubicon, and it also uses lemon juice instead of lime and ups the gin portions as well. I didn't mean to come too close to Jamie's recipe in my alteration, but I guess this suggests that the changes are somewhat agreeable. I hadn't even seen Jamie recipe on his site until I had almost completed writing this, which is odd because I generally read everything he posts, so it was good to see some confirmation about my thoughts on the changes.

Now, go do a taste test of the two (or three or four) versions and tell me which one you like the best. I might be dead wrong, and I'm fine with that. I'm going to drink my modified version regardless of what you think. Every sip will tell me this is one of my favorite drinks, something I can't say for the original version. Also, I tried to make sure that a similar cocktail made of gin, maraschino, green Chartreuse, and lemon juice doesn't already exist. I don't think it does, but this wouldn't be the first time I was wrong. If you know something I don't, let me know. Happy taste-testing. Now head back over to Jimmy's Cocktail Hour to see everyone else's variations on classics.

Find of the Day!

I just want to brag for a brief moment. Today I went to Half-Price Books before heading into the bar, and I found a copy of Esquire Drinks: An Opinionated & Irreverent Guide to Drinking for $7. I had actually contemplated biting the bullet and buying the book from Amazon for $56, but man, am I glad I waited. I have been trying to expand my cocktail bookshelf lately and definitely had this one on the list. Now, if I could only find The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks for $4, I would have had a pretty good week. If you're looking to expand your drinks library, there are several great books out there to start with. A couple of bloggers have already put together some great lists for you, so start here or here. But, make sure to check your local used book store first, I was surprised at how many cocktail books I found - some of the books even described how to make a proper drink.